A) Batteries Batteries Batteries
Most important part if you want to have some power in a specification class. My system that has been working for me is to run my car, store the batteries at that state until the same day I am going to run again. That day I will discharge the batteries and recharge them. I find that it is crucial to have a fresh charge on the batteries with stock racing. I find that if I don't use the batteries the same day I charged them, they will go flat.
I charge my R1 990 and RP 900 cells at 700ma (.7 amp) and I've gotten feedback from racers who use the Peak Performance batteries that they charge at similar charge rates, .7 and .9 were the answers I got from the guys running fast with the Peak cells.
B) Clean is Fast!
Make sure that your bearings are clean and free. My system for wheel bearings has been to completely degrease them using motor spray, run them dry and consistently check to ensure they spin free. Once they no longer spin freely and the problem can't be remedied with motor spray, I discontinue use of the bearing in question.
Also, make sure your motor stays clean too. I don't use bushing lubrication or comm drops because both products are detrimental to the cause. If you use bushing lube, make sure to monitor your motor closely for cleanliness. Motor spray is your friend, just don't bathe in it or ingest it! Common practice among racers is to use the air compressor to blow the clag off the car, but I choose not to subscribe to this method. If you're not careful, a lot of the clag can end up in the motor. For this reason I choose to clean my car with a brush.
C) The motor iteself
Make sure that your arm spins free....armature that is ;) The bushings as well as the brushes go through a break-in period.
My method for the brushes is to mostly break them in on a designated "brush break-in" motor. That way most of the curve gets worn into the brush without having the wear on the commutator. After the brushes are about 4/5ths of the way there, I will put them on the motor and run it on ~2.4v for about 7-10 minutes. I do my mod motors the same way.
At races where your brushes are fixed to the motor, racers like to break in their motors in variety of fluids to keep it clean during the break-in process. I've seen fast motors that were a result of a dry break in too. With the PN70 motors, it seemed like one technique used at handout races was to allow the brushes to soak in Voodoo comm drops in order to soften them up a bit before break-in. Everyone has their own way, but the bottom line here is that properly broken in brushes will yield better results.
Sometimes, you will just get a dud & there's nothing you can do. Learning how to accept loss is something that one will eventually encounter at some point in their Mini-Z career.
D) Drive like a....
How you exit the corner greatly effects how efficiently you will be able to carry the speed down the straight. Make sure your car is set up to have enough steering so you can deliver power uninterrupted through the apex and exit of the corner. This will have a greater effect on your lap times then anything previously mentioned in this posting =D
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